Q: How can I get my puppy or dog to stop biting?
A: Most people feel that in the case of a puppy it is just puppy behavior. But the problem with this is, if the puppy likes to bite it will like to bite as an adult. I suggest stopping the behavior ASAP. To do this in puppies, I make sure as they bite, they bite my hand and my hand goes into their mouth, I take a finger and put it down their throat. As I do this, I will praise them to take the negativity out of it. In their mind, they created the situation and also the out come, which was uncomfortable for them. If this becomes more aggressive or a larger dog and the gag method doesn’t work then use your leash and do a NO, pop correction and do this until the behavior stops. Teeth in a household is a capitol offence and must be controlled ASAP.
Q: My puppy is chewing on the furniture!
A: If you use the restriction method of introducing your puppy into your home, you can use the leash with a NO, pop correction as soon as the behavior starts. With this type of correction, as soon as you correct and divert your puppies’ attention, you can give him something that is acceptable to chew on. This is a fair trade agreement. There are several products available on the market to stop the chewing on furniture and things. These products are effective if introduced correctly, but none of them tell you how. I will. If you purchase one of these products, for the first four days, three to four times a day, give your dog a little squirt in the mouth. By the fourth day your dog will want nothing to do with that STUFF. Now you can start using it and when your dog smells it, he will avoid contact with the bad tasting smell. This is a form of de-sensitizing your dog to a scent.
Q: My puppy or dog is jumping.
A: Use your leash and training collar. When your dog jumps up on you and you are working alone just give a quick snap on the collar straight down. If you have a helper, give the dog an opportunity to jump on them and as the feet leave the floor give a pop correction backwards. Do this until it is no longer fun to jump on people. If your dog jumps on people at the door, stage the event and correct it as above. If your dog isn’t allowed to do this behavior, it will forget that it could or will never know that it can.
Q: My puppy gets into the trash.
A: It is common for a dog to investigate if it smells something interesting. One good smelly place is the trash. If this behavior starts you can stop it with supervision and your leash and training collar and do your NO correction as your puppy or dog goes near the container. Another way is to use a mousetrap, the wooden ones with the spring release. Put the trap on top of the trash, cover it with a tissue and leave the area and wait. The trap will not catch most dogs, but it is no longer fun, instead rather frightening to investigate the trash. The best part is that we had nothing to do with the correction, they did it all by themselves.
Q: We have moved to a new house and our dog
is acting out.
A: Dogs don’t handle change well. If there is a major change in their pack (house hold) some dogs go through behavior changes. In a new house they no longer know the rules, which door to use to go outside, where to sleep, and there are new smells and noises. The best way to re-orientate your dog is by using the crate, it’s their home and it is some thing familiar. It should take only a few days for your dogs to start acting normal again and establish a routine. Major changes that can affect your dog are moving, death in the family or divorce. To a dog these changes can be traumatic because the order of the pack has changed.
Presented by- C.M. Academy of Dog
training your puppy/dog does not have to be an unpleasant
experience. Understanding what basic principles apply and why
things work will reduce frustration and increase success.
about the length of time your dog can control his bowel or bladder.
Base this expectation on age and physical ability. A younger dog
cannot control his bodily functions for the same amount of time as a
more mature dog. A reasonable amount of time can be calculated by
adding one hour to your pup’s age in months (i.e., a healthy 2-month
old should be able hold it for 3 hours etc.). Expecting more is not
A sick dog
may have accidents unwillingly. Rule out worms or a bladder
infection. A visit to the vet is always recommended.
Define their bed
or den. Wild dogs sleep in a den and domestic dogs sleep in a
crate. The average puppy/dog that is mentally and physically sound
will not soil in their bed as long as they have opportunity to do it
outside. We utilize a crate to mimic our dog’s natural instinct to
den. Some people think using a crate is horrible, but in reality,
the crate becomes their own personal space within your home where
they feel safe.
You MUST eliminate or at least MINIMIZE the opportunity for your dog
to soil in your house. Your dog should never be unsupervised until
he understands the rules. It is our job as the pack leader to teach
our puppy/dog these rules.
A puppy’s world is relative to his size. If a puppy’s
crate is too big, he may soil in it. A puppy should just be able to
stand up and turn around in their crate. If you selected a large
breed, you will have to buy or borrow many sizes as they grow.
The #1 tool for
house training is a crate, portable kennel, or puppy carrier. We
prefer plastic crates as they are more durable and dogs are less
likely to escape. Some people may choose to use papers, pads, or a
litter box. This works well for people who live in a high rise, or
have dogs with sever allergies. However, starting with puppy pads
then switching over to a crate adds an unnecessary step and will
does a crate work? For the first 3-4 weeks of life, puppies nurse
and their mother keeps the den clean by consuming their excrement.
It may sound gross, but that is how puppies learn how to keep their
den/crate clean. At 5 weeks or so, the puppies are weaned and their
mother stops cleaning up after them. When this happens, the breeder
takes over to further reinforce how to keep a den clean using a
substrate different from the bedding material (sawdust or
Using a crate
also makes correcting undesirable behavior easier. To correct
whining or barking in the crate, place the crate near the door in
another room. Place the kennel door away from the direction that
you will be approaching. If your puppy starts to fuss when you
leave the area, approach from the around the corner to rear of the
crate (so the puppy does NOT see you or hear you) and rap the
top of the crate. Rap the crate hard enough to make a noise and to
startle. Do not verbalize. This will re-direct the unwanted
behavior and the puppy will associate the bad behavior (whining)
with a bad result (rap on the crate). Do this until the behavior
stops, then wait a few minutes and pleasantly take the puppy out.
The puppy never associates the correction to us if done correctly.
Do not use this technique when you know your puppy has to potty, as
it would be unfair.
One client did
not want to use the crate, because she thought it was cruel. When
she left her house, she gave the dog free reign of the house. Every
time she returned home, something was destroyed and/or the dog had
soiled. Upon arriving home and finding the messes, she scolded the
dog. Over time, the arrival of the master was no longer a positive
experience for either. The dog began to interpret the owner’s
arrival home as a time for correction, and the owner was met at the
door by a dog whose tail was down and acting depressed instead of a
warm friendly greeting.
the crate and took away the dog’s opportunity to do damage. Upon
arriving home, the dog was happy to see his master, and the owner
was happy to have her house intact. No more messes. No more
scolding. It took several weeks to reverse the negativity of the
owner’s arrival home. In time, the dog looked forward to the
owner’s arrival home and the owner was thrilled to have her house
intact. Both are much happier, and all it took was proper use of
trainers, we encounter many events where dogs have destroyed
furniture, cabinets, and carpeting. One client allowed their dog to
destroy their newly renovated basement. A fifty dollar crate could
have saved them frustration and about $5,000. Using a crate will
also keep our dogs safe. It will keep them out of dangerous
household items like poisons.
Basics for using a Crate
you pup/dog to his new crate by using treats and praise. Have a
calm and positive attitude when placing him into the crate and
give him a treat once he has relaxed. A safe and positive
environment for your puppy will speed up training.
goes from the crate directly outside to potty. Make sure all
family members are consistent with the CRATE to OUTSIDE
potty command like ‘go potty’ or ‘hurry up.’ Allow him a
reasonable amount of time to complete ALL of his business. Once
the mission is complete, give lots of praise so that he knows he
did a good job. Use treats intermittently, because we have had
dogs ‘pretend’ to potty for a treat!
does not potty in a reasonable amount of time, put him back into
the crate. Try again a short time later (15-20 minutes).
puppy/dog has completely eliminated, then and only then, it can
be loose in the house with 100% supervision. If or when
you do not have time to supervise your puppy/dog then put him in
earns more play space and time as he develops bladder control.
Puppies will always have accidents, and it is always the owner’s
fault. They have not learned the rules yet.
time you can correct a dog for an accident is when you catch him
in the act. Rubbing your dog’s nose in it or
making him sit by the mess does not teach them anything. Use
the pennies in the can trick or yell ‘no’ when you catch them.
When you teach
your puppy where and when you want them to potty, there are no
negatives, just positive reinforcement. Consider the crate your
puppy’s new home within your home. This training tool may be needed
for over a year for a puppy. It may take an adult dog only 3-6
weeks of training. You now understand how to eliminate the
opportunity for your puppy to soil in your home or damage property.
You will know
when your puppy/dog is becoming housetrained when you are playing
and he stops what he is doing and goes to the door requesting to be
let out. WHEN THIS HAPPENS CONSISTENTLY, NOT JUST ONCE OR TWICE, it
is an indication that your puppy/dog understands what you want. As
your puppy/dog becomes more consistent, he earns more freedom –DON’T
JSTENFELDT/CMACADEMYof DOGTRAINING and SJAKOBS
Dr. R. K. Anderson's Socialization
Robert K. Anderson DVM
Diplomate ACVB and ACVPM
Professor and Director Emeritus, Animal Behavior Clinic and Center
to Study Human/Animal Relationships and Environments, University of
1666 Coffman Street, Suite 128, Falcon Heights, MN 55108
Puppy Vaccination and Socialization Should Go Together
TO: My Colleagues in Veterinary Medicine:
Common questions I receive from puppy owners, dog trainers and
veterinarians concern: 1) what is the most favorable age or period
of time when puppies learn best? 2) what are the health implications
of my advice that veterinarians and trainers should offer
socialization programs for puppies starting at 8 to 9 weeks of age.
Puppies begin learning at birth and their brains appear to be
particularly responsive to learning and retaining experiences that
are encountered during the first 13 to 16 weeks after birth. This
means that breeders, new puppy owners, veterinarians, trainers and
behaviorists have a responsibility to assist in providing these
learning/socialization experiences with other puppies/dogs, with
children/adults and with various environmental situations during
this optimal period from birth to 16 weeks.
Many veterinarians are making this early socialization and learning
program part of a total wellness plan for breeders and new owners of
puppies during the first 16 weeks of a puppy’s life -- the first 7-8
weeks with the breeder and the next 8 weeks with the new owners.
This socialization program should enroll puppies from 8 to 12 weeks
of age as a key part of any preventive medicine program to improve
the bond between pets and their people and keep dogs as valued
members of the family for 12 to 18 years.
To take full advantage of this early special learning period, many
veterinarians recommend that new owners take their puppies to puppy
socialization classes, beginning at 8 to 9 weeks of age. At this age
they should have (and can be required to have) received a minimum of
their first series of vaccines for protection against infectious
diseases. This provides the basis for increasing immunity by further
repeated exposure to these antigens either through natural exposure
in small doses or artificial exposure with vaccines during the next
8 to 12 weeks. In addition the owner and people offering puppy
socialization should take precautions to have the environment and
the participating puppies as free of natural exposure as possible by
good hygiene and caring by careful instructors and owners.
Experience and epidemiologic data support the relative safety and
lack of transmission of disease in these puppy socialization classes
over the past 10 years in many parts of the United States. In fact;
the risk of a dog dying because of infection with distemper or parvo
disease is far less than the much higher risk of a dog dying
(euthanasia) because of a behavior problem. Many veterinarians are
now offering new puppy owners puppy socialization classes in their
hospitals or nearby training facilities in conjunction with trainers
and behaviorists because they want socialization and training to be
very important parts of a wellness plan for every puppy. We need to
recognize that this special sensitive period for learning is the
best opportunity we have to influence behavior for dogs and the most
important and longest lasting part of a total wellness plan.
Are there risks? Yes. But 10 years of good experience and data, with
few exceptions, offers veterinarians the opportunity to generally
recommend early socialization and training classes, beginning when
puppies are 8 to 9 weeks of age. However, we always follow a
veterinarian’s professional judgment, in individual cases or
situations, where special circumstances warrant further immunization
for a special puppy before starting such classes. During any period
of delay for puppy classes, owners should begin a program of
socialization with children and adults, outside their family, to
take advantage of this special period in a puppy’s life.